Model Horse Coat and Hood Sewing Tutorial

Make a horse coat and hood for the Stablemate and Classic sizes of Breyer Horse models. This pattern does not include printable directions. Please see the video here. Get the pattern here.

The pattern requires the use of 4 (1 inch pieces) of hook and loop tape.
One coast can be made from 1/3 yard of fabric. I like to get to different types of fabric so the lining and the outside are different colors.

The Basics:

You will need 1/3 yard of fabric to make one coat. I like to get another 1/3 yard of a different color fabric for the lining. Therefore, 2/3 yard will make a minimum of 2 coats. Cotton materials work best.

You will also need 4 pieces of hook and loop tape that are 1.5 inches long or shorter.

Print the Pattern:

No adjustments are needed to print and use the pattern. Just download, print and go!

The Coat:

Cut the coat patterns and attach the straps where indicated with tape. Notches will match.

Cut 2 pieces from the outside fabric and 2 pieces from the lining. Align the notches on the back and sew using a 5/8″ seam allowance. Be sure to sew the back only.

Unfold the blanket and place the lining on top, right sides facing. Match the center seams and pin. Lay the pieces flat on the table, smoothing out the straps so they are even.

Cut the tabs from one side of the blanket piece. I know it seems like a waste, but in developing this pattern, I found it fairly difficult to manage the pattern otherwise. This way, the lining and the blanket will match on both sides, without any guessing or frustrations. Easy is the name of the game in my sewing room.

Use the pattern as a guide to attach the hook and loop tape. Sew around the perimeter of the tape to secure. On the side of the blanket without straps, attach the tape to the right side of the fabric.

On the side with the tabs, attach the tape to the right side of the lining, where indicated on the pattern.

Pin the outside and lining together and sew around the perimeter, leaving open a small space open to turn the blanket right side out. Sew with 5/8″ seam allowance on the blanket, but a slightly more narrow seam allowance around the straps. Remember they have to be turned right side out, so it’s important they are not too narrow.

Before turning the blanket, clip all the corners and slash all the angles for easy pressing. Turn the blanket right side out and poke out the straps and corners, carefully. Press well and top sew around the entire blanket, ensuring the opening has been closed.

For the hood:

Cut one of each piece in outer fabric and one of each in lining fabric. Use the pattern as a guide to attach hook and loop tape.

Attach the hook and loop tape to the right side of side one.

Attach the hook and loop to side two on the right side of the lining.

Match the notches on the neck arch and pin together the hood pieces, right sides facing. Pin the lining to the hood with right sides facing.

Sew the perimeter of the hood with lining, with a 5/8″ seam allowance, leaving a small space to turn the piece right side out.

Turn the hood right side out and press well. Top sew the perimeter, close to the edge, ensuring the opening has been closed.

Sew a Flower Bouquet Bag

This pattern DOES NOT come with printable instructions.

Get the pattern here, on Etsy. See the sewing video here.


Fabric: I like to use upcycled materials that I find at the thrift store pretty cheap. For this project, a medium-sized tablecloth worked well to make one small and one large bag. If you are planning to buy fabric at the thrift store, I recommend a half yard to make both sizes.

Tie: Also needed is a tie of some sort. Both rope and ribbon seem to work well for this situation.

All the other sewing tools: iron, machine, ruler and scissors.

Print the pattern and cut.

This pattern requires no special instruction for printing.

Tape the top to the bottom at the shaded area. Notches will mostly match.

Cut two of the pattern pieces on the fold and set aside.

Cut a strap 3″ wide to the desired length. 60″ is recommended for a sling bag, although it is best to customize it to individual needs.

Cut a strip of fabric 3″ and to the desired length for the strap. Alternatively, a ribbon or other cordage can be substituted.

Fold over the 1/4″ edge of both long sides of the strap to create a clean edge.

Fold in half to match edges and press well.

Sew the open edge of the strap to close; set aside.

Sew close to the open edge of the strap.

Sew one side of the bag. Seam allowance is not important, but this tutorial uses a 5/8″ seam allowance.

Open the bag at the seam and fold down 1″ of the top to create a facing. Press well.

Fold down 1″ of the top and press well. Pin if desired.

Place the strap ends in place, under the folded edge of the fabric and pin, if desired. The placement is based upon your preference. For this tutorial, the straps were placed 3.5″ from the seams.

Sew the folded edge, making sure to reinforce the seams at the strap for durability.

Placement of the straps is a matter of preference. For this tutorial, they were placed 3.5″ from the seams.

Fold up the straps and press into place., as shown below. Sew strap to the top of the bag.

Reinforce the strap at the top of the bag seam.

Fold up 1″ of the bottom seam and sew into place.

Fold the bag in half with right sides facing.

Place and pin the tie to the desired location on the right side of the fabric. For this tutorial, the tie was placed 3″ above the bottom hem. The tie will be sandwiched between the front and back when sewn into place. The length of the tie is to preference, but a 24″ strip, folded in half, seems to work well for an average size bouquet. Adjust the length of the tie as needed.

Place and pin the tie on the right side of the fabric. It will be sandwiched between the bag sides when sewn into place.

Turn the bag right side out and tie. Enjoy! Keep scrolling for the video.

Baby Doll Sleeper Sewing Pattern

Get the pattern on Etsy. Makes three sizes of footed sleepers with hoods. See chart for sizes. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the video tutorial. Get the doll pattern here.

Get the pattern on Etsy and download (Having trouble downloading the pattern?) Assemble the pieces where required using tape.

Cut the pieces from fabric following printed guides.

Sew the Body:

Sew the back pieces together. Set Aside.

Lay out the front pieces. Sew the crotch to the right side where indicated below. If you are using a serger, overlock the edges of both front pieces.

Attach the zipper using a zipper foot. Allow adequate room between the neckline and the zipper top. Trim any excess zipper at the bottom, after securing with stitches to keep in place.

Pin the opposite side to the zipper and unfold to ensure the necklines are even. Sew the zipper into place.

Place the back on the front and sew the seams at the top of the arms. Unfold and press. Sew on the cuffs. Use a strip of knit fabric, folded in half. For micro: 2″; for XS and S: 2.5″ Place the cuff and sleeve into the machine and stretch the knit as the machine is sewing. Instead of a cuff, the sleeve can be hemmed with 1/4″ hem.

Fold the garment to match the side and crotch seams. Sew.

Sew the Hood:

Sew the hood sides to the hood center. TIP: Always sew with the head side on top and the hood center on the bottom. Fold in the hood front 1/2″ and press well. Top stitch into place.

Sew the Booties:

Sew the heels of the feet and attach them to the soles.

Turn the booties right side out.

Place the sleeper on the table with the zipper facing up. With the toe of the bootie facing down, and the opening toward the front, place the bootie in the leg of the sleeper. Center the front of the bootie with the front of the leg and pin.

Put the bootie into the leg hold and center the heel seam with the back center of the leg.

Sew the bootie into the leg of the sleeper. It’s a tight spot, so go slow.

Turn the sleeper right side out and attach the hood. Match the center back of the hood with the center back seam of the sleeper.

Pin the neckline edges to the zipper to secure.

Sew the hood to the sleeper.

The sleeper is done!

Baby Doll with Head Sewing Tutorial

Pattern includes six sizes. Scroll to the bottom for video tutorial. Click here for a pattern that is the body, without a head.

The doll can be filled with weighted materials for a posable effect, but regular stuffing works just fine, too.

Make a weighted doll body with head! For this tutorial, a king sized cotton sheet was used (from the thrift store for $3.99), along with a throw pillow (from the thrift store for $1) to make nine complete dolls. I recommend using 1/3 yard for the smaller sizes, up to 1.25 yards for the largest. I strongly recommend using upcycled materials! This includes the weighted filling.

There are many products on the market for weighted stuffing. Take into consideration how the doll will be used before choosing. My dolls will become dress forms for baby clothes, and will not be subject to hard play or other elements like water. That made rice a good choice for my project. Use discretion.

Print the pattern:

Once the pattern is downloaded (having trouble downloading?), use the chart to determine which pages are to be printed. Only print the pages you need when you need them. Save paper and ink!

Use the chart to target the page numbers for the size to be printed.

Assemble pattern pieces (if needed):

For the larger sizes, attach the pattern pieces at the shaded area using tape. Notches will match.

Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and get ready to sew.


Pin arms together with right sides facing. Sew the perimeter of the arm with 1/4″ seam allowance. Slash the curved seam areas, but not too close! Turn right side out and set aside.


Unfold the leg and press flat. Sew the foot top to the ankle portion of the leg (the smaller side). Slash the seam, but not too close!

Fold the leg in half and sew the back seam. Trim the heel area for uniformity.

Open the foot area. Pin the notch on the foot sole to the seam on the heel. Sew the sole to the foot top. Slash the curves around the sole, but not too close!

Fill the limbs:

There are a variety of ways and materials to fill weighted limbs. For this tutorial, I am using rice. My dolls will be used as dress forms and will not be exposed to elements or abuse, so this way a cheap and natural way to fill my dolls. Also available are plastic and glass beads at a higher cost of both money and to the environment. Choose what works best for you. I also used a gravy boat as a pouring receptacle and it worked better than a funnel.

For the arms, begin by filling the hand. Follow the filling with a small wad of cotton batting. I used a throw pillow from the thrift store for a dollar, and it worked very well. The cotton should only be as big as the “wrist joint.” Follow with more filling up to the elbow joint, followed by cotton. Fill the arm again, until almost full, and pad with some cotton. Pin the arms with the seams together and set aside.

For the legs, begin by filling the foot area with the weighted filling. Follow with a small wad of cotton for the “ankle joint.” Fill again will weighted filling to the knee and top with cotton. Fill again with weighted filling to the upper thigh and top with cotton. Pin the leg with the seam centered on the back of the leg.

Sew the Body:

Sew the darts on the bum. Place pieces side by side and fold up the bottom at the dart, matching the edges. Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Sew the belly of the front body piece.

Open the front body piece and pin the shoulders of the back body to the front body shoulders. Sew and slash the curves.

Sew the head:

Rather than pin the curved edges of the head, ease the pieces together in the machine. The notch is located around the area of the nose; be sure to match notches for proper placement before sewing. Always sew with the side head on top and ease the pieces through the machine as it is stitching. See the video for guiding the pieces through the machine.

TIP: Sew head on as follows – begin with matching notches and sew with the side head on top; face toward the back of the head. Next, begin at the back of the head and sew on from the back of the head toward the face.

Ease the side head onto the face portion through the machine as it is stitching. Match notches and always sew with the side head on top of the face portion.

Slash the curved seams of the head- not too close!

Attach the head to the body:

Find the middle of the front neck and pin it to the belly seam, right sides facing.

Sew the side seams:

Pin and sew the neckline of the doll. Fold the doll with right sides facing and pin the side seams. Sew from the armpit to the hip. Slash the curved seam at the armpit.

Sew the bum from the bottom to the middle back. This will be the area where there is a tab on the pattern.

Attach the limbs:

Begin with the legs by placing the body on the table with the backside facing up. Place the legs in the body with the toes pointing down, toward the doll’s face. The heels of the doll will be poking through the neck hole.

Pin the crotch seam in the center, then position the legs. Make sure the leg seam is centered in the back of the leg. Pin and sew the legs into the body.

Turn the doll right side out and position the arms. Make sure the thumb is pointing up towards the doll’s face. Put the arm in the hole and pin and sew.

Sew the head dart:

Turn the head inside out again and match the neck seams. Sew the dart from the neck seam, up the back of the head.

Stuff the doll:

Create a couple of weighted pouches: one for the head and one for the bum. Put them into the doll torso and fill in with cotton batting or other filling. Shape the face, belly and bum as you fill. Pin up the hole in the back and hand sew it closed.

Keep scrolling for the video.

Doll Body Picture Tutorial

This cuddle body pattern includes six sizes. Not Jointed. To see the video, scroll to the bottom of the page.

One pattern includes all sizes.
This cuddle body can be weighted for a posable look. Scroll to the bottom of the page for a video about weighting doll limbs.

General Information:

*Get the pattern here.

*For this tutorial, I used natural, unbleached muslin. One yard, 90″ wide made all six of these dolls, with a small swatch left over. I recommend using 1/3 yard for the micro, up to 2/3 yard for the XLarge. I highly recommend using a walking foot.

*Sew all seams on all sizes with 1/4″ seam allowance; including the bottom darts.

*The doll bodies will require some type of stuffing. I bought a throw pillow from the thrift store, ran it through a hot wash and dry, then cut it open and used the stuffing. For all six of these dolls, I utilized 1/3 of the pillow stuffing.

*To make the doll posable, insert weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend one for each jointed area, for example, one for the foot, one for the lower leg, one for the thigh, and so on with the arms.

Use weighted pouches for the jointed areas of the body for a posable doll. These dolls were stuffed only with upcycled poly-fil.

Print the pattern:

This pattern is a PDF and includes all sizes in one file. You can use the chart to determine which size to print and only print those pages. This will save paper, ink and time.

Cut the pieces of the pattern for the size you want to make. Each is marked with the size; there are seven pattern pieces for each doll.

This pattern doesn’t require any special treatment to print and use. Just find the size you want and print only those pages according to the size chart.

The zip tie casing:

Iron the strip in half, the long way. At this point, measure the yarn or zip tie intended to be used and trim the strip width as needed. Be sure to leave 1/4″ seam allowance, plus the width of the tie. Set aside.


Place arms, right sides together and pin. Sew carefully around the perimeter with 1/4″ seam allowance. Slash the seam allowance around the curves of the hand.

Turn the arms right side out and stuff. To make the limbs posable, fill with weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend using one for the hand, one for the forearm, and one for the bicep area. Set aside.


Sew the darts on the bottom, right sides facing. Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Sew the belly with 1/4″ seam allowance, right sides facing.

Unfold and match with the back at the shoulders, right sides facing. Sew the shoulder area with 1/4″ seam allowance. Slash the curves in the neck/shoulder area.

Unfold the neckline and press.

Trim the width of the casing if needed. If it is too wide, it will create puckers around the neck.

Prepare the zip tie casing by folding in one end and pressing, to create a neat entrance for the zip tie. Pin to the neckline.

Attach the zip tie casing to the neckline, raw edges together. Right sides facing. Leave a 1/4″ space between the end of the casing the raw edge of the center back. This will allow the back seam to be sewn without sewing the casing closed.

Leave 1/4″ space between the raw edge of the center back and the casing opening.

Pin the casing to the neckline. Adjust the length and pin as before by folding the fabric and leaving 1/4″ gap at the center back edge. Press the casing flat.

Match the center back seam and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Match the sides and sew from the armpits to the hips. Leave the arm holes open, and the bottom open for limb attachment. slash the underarms curves. Set aside.


Press the legs flat. Attach the foot top to the ankle as shown:

Slash the curves at the ankles. Fold the leg in half with right sides facing and sew the back seam of the leg.

Attach the Sole:

Match the heel seam with the notch on the sole. Using 1/4″ seam allowance, ease the foot top and the sole together. Slash the curves of the sole.

Turn the leg right side out and stuff. For posable limbs, use weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend using one for the foot, one for the lower leg and one for the thigh.

Attach the limbs:

Place the body belly side up. Insert the legs, poking the feet through the neck hole, toes pointing up. Pin the center seam at the crotch before adjusting legs.

Pin the legs to the bottom, making sure the leg seam is in the middle, as shown:

Sew the bottom of the doll with 1/4″ seam allowance and turn right side out.

Insert the arms to the armholes. Hold the arm up to the arm hole and make sure the thumb is facing upward.

The seams should be positioned as pictured:

Sew in the arms using 1/4″ seam allowance and turn right side out.

Stuff and attach head with zip tie or string closure.

Baby Cowboy Boots: A Tutorial

Make a pair of cowboy boots for a little one in a few easy steps. Get the pattern here. Scroll to bottom of the page for a video tutorial.

The pattern includes four sizes: XS-Large infant sizes

YeeHaw! These fun boots would make a great gift, or a prop for infant photography. They are simple to make from felt squares, and this pattern includes four sizes!

Approximate sizes of the finished baby boots.

What you will need:

Download and print the pattern. No special programs or directions are required for printing. Once printed, cut out the pieces.

2 squares of felt for each pair you decide to make, unless you decide to mix up the colors, then get more.

Pin the pattern pieces to the felt (or other fabric choice) and cut out.

Print and cut the pattern pieces.

Sew the contrast piece:

Place the contrast piece to the boot side and pin well. Using a zipper foot for visibility, top sew the contrast piece to the boot side. When sewn, trim where necessary front and back. Set Aside.

Add Embellishments:

If you would like to add any extra designs or trims, now is the time to do so. Here are some ideas:


Add a star or a cactus for a fun pop of color. Find black and white clipart online, and print it out for a template.

Boot Straps:

Add strips of felt to create boot straps. Be sure to measure their size and distance from one another for a consistent look.

Top Trim:

Use the pattern as a template to put a trim at the top of the boot for added structure and style.

Custom Stitching:

Use a fancy stitch on your machine to make a nice border on the pieces.

Sew the Toe Dart:

Match the sides of the “V” in the toe and sew them using a narrow seam allowance. I like to use 1/4″ for the toe dart.

Match the sides of the “V” in the toe and sew them together using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Attach the Foot and Side:

Sew the foot top to the boot side with right sides facing. Sew the non-dart side of the foot to the curved middle of the boot side.

Please be advised: the fabric used, and the angle of the cut, will determine how well these pieces fit together when sewn. Trim any non-matching seams before continuing with the next step.

Sew the foot top to the boot side. It is best to ease it through the machine rather than pin the pieces together in advance.

Sew the Boot Back:

Fold the boot in half and sew the back seam 5/8″

Sew on the Soles:

Set out the cut soles and place them left to right. Pin the heel seam of each boot to the center of the heel on the sole. Sew the sole to the boot side.

Turn right side out. Enjoy!

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Just Me is Just Fine.

This Valentine’s Day, I celebrate the love I have for myself, and the courage it takes to be alone.

I love my life as a single lady.

It was 1998 when my very short-lived marriage ended, and I was devastated. Not because my marriage failed, necessarily (because that was a train wreck from the start) but more from the collapse of my own image of what it meant to be married. More so, what it meant to be one half of a couple committed for life. Or, supposed to be anyway. I thought that through partnering, there would always be someone who had my back, someone who would work with me toward shared goals. The reality for me was the socially enforced stereotype, which was miserable.

I had been raised to believe all the stereotypes. Women stayed home and took care of children. Men worked outside the home and controlled the money. Women needed to be associated with a man to have any value. It was an idea pushed on me from a very young age, when a common question became, “Do you have a boyfriend?” By High School, it was expected that I would always be dating someone, and shamed when I wasn’t. When I announced my senior year that I would be going to prom alone, my folks absolutely forbade it. What would people think if they saw me without a date? My childhood is punctuated with lessons of how important it is to be defined as a man’s ball and chain. His old lady.

Because that’s totally flattering.

I was raised by people who speak in bumper sticker and have cliché ideas about what constitutes gender-appropriate behavior. No copyright infringement intended.

So, I got married at the age of 21, and the disappointment grew quickly. All of my marital experiences were like a wall of expectations crumbling around me, crushing my spirit with each falling stone. When I got my paycheck, we would agree to save for a house, and the next day the money would be gone. I’d come home from work at 10pm to a house full of people playing games and eating our groceries. We had to go to his parents house every weekend and spend the night. Everything was a battle, and there were no winners, especially me. It didn’t matter what was said, or what was agreed to, he always did whatever the hell he wanted to do anyway, and I was expected to dutifully go along. I had no control over my own life. There was no working toward shared goals. Most of the time it was as if I didn’t even exist.

I was the only person in the relationship working to keep it together. The only thing keeping me in that relationship was the terror of being alone. I had convinced myself that normal relationships were supposed to be about constant communication failures and struggles between partners. I convinced myself that the stereotype was just a fact of life to be tolerated. I was supposed to just have fun with the fact that I was cleaning up adult pee off the bathroom floor and putting another grown adult’s dirty laundry in the hamper. I had convinced myself that all the frustrations were a price to be paid for coupling. Eventually I made the conclusion for myself that if that’s what relationships are supposed to be about, I’ll pass.

If this is part of being married, no thank you. Just… no.

I spent the better part of three years asking for my needs to be met, listening to empty promises, and feeling like an after thought in the relationship. It was deeply saddening and utterly infuriating. The disappointment was crippling, and I often dreamed of running away in dramatic fashion. The fighting and constant struggle left permanent scars.

So when the fog lifted and I found myself alone for the first time, I realized that being alone wasn’t the worst thing in the world. After all, I had been going through the motions of two people for the past three years, now I could put that energy into myself. I was initially surprised by how much energy I had, now that I wasn’t in a constant state of marital chaos and disrespect. I forced myself to go out alone to restaurants and theaters. I went camping alone and took myself on vacations both near and far. And I had fun! I was able to do the things I couldn’t do while I was languishing in a one-sided relationship. I was ending each day feeling unburdened. I was fulfilling my own needs and it was glorious!

On one of my many solo adventures, I came across this historical site and caught a glimpse of my future. Dinosaur National Monument

That’s not to say that I did not occasionally date, because I did. Unfortunately, I saw the same irritating traits in nearly all the men I dated – I could easily identify their relationship issues in the stories they told about their exes. It was a Groundhog’s Day experience of poor communication and attempts at mind games for several years of short-term dating before I grew weary of it. Was there such a thing as a partner who had my back and worked with me toward shared goals? I wasn’t finding it, and from what I heard from my girlfriends in relationships, they hadn’t either. I lost hope. Like a balloon running out of air, I let the dating lifestyle wane, like my youth.

It isn’t deviant to be single. It’s delightful and fulfilling.

I’ve been on my own for 23 years now and my biggest regret in life is once believing that marriage and partnering is about constantly giving, with only receiving an occasional, obligatory gift of flowers or chocolate in return (on a holiday, or after an argument, of course). I regret ever believing that it was my responsibility to take care of a man, much like a mother cares for a child. I regret not putting myself first. I regret ever trusting that a partnership would help me achieve my financial goals. My experience was that relationships that adhered to the traditional stereotypes were simply not enough for me.

Being single has far more positives than negatives for me. I don’t have to clean up after another adult. I don’t have to financially support another adult. I don’t feel like an after thought. I don’t have to convince someone to love me. I don’t have to compromise on anything. I could have saved myself a lot of time and heartache if I had embraced when I was younger, what my heart has always known. I do not need a partner to have a happy relationship. I can always be in a happy relationship with myself.

Cuddle Body Picture Tutorial

This pattern is available for free. PLEASE SEE THE NEWEST VERSION HERE. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the video tutorial.

This cuddle body has attached arms and legs. Not Jointed.

I was in need of a new project, and it was suggested by my cousin that I try making a pattern for a doll body with jointed arms. I did some research and used up a twin size sheet practicing the pattern, but I have not yet mastered the jointed doll. Instead, I have developed this pattern for an infant doll body. The pattern features a wide neck with a casing for a zip tie, and 3D feet that will fit regular booties and shoes. This pattern also contains two options for hands: fingers or mittens.

General Information:

Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Use a short stitch length (between 1.5 and 1.7 works best) and sew slowly, especially around fingers and thumbs.

You will need about 3/4yard of fabric. For this tutorial, I used flannel which can be sourced at fabric stores for around $4/yard and up. Alternatively, a flannel sheet or receiving blanket will also work just fine.

Stuffing – your choice. A bag of polyfil can be purchased at your local stores for around $10. A substitute could be an old throw pillow ($1 thrifted, washed and high-heat dry), or shredded fabric scraps.

To Begin:

Download and print the pattern. Depending on the size pattern, there may be assembly required. Simply tape the pieces together at the shaded area, matching notches. TIP: Trace the pattern pieces onto freezer paper. The shiny side of the paper can be ironed to the fabric, providing for a more accurate cut. Freezer paper patterns can be re-used indefinitely!

To assemble pattern:

Overlap matching pattern pieces at the shaded area. The triangle notches should relatively match up. Tap the pieces together.

Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and cut. Be sure to cut the notches for the best fit. When all the pieces are cut, prepare to sew by threading the machine with a complimentary color thread. Sew all seams with 1/4″ seam allowance (eyeball it on the fingers) and a short stitch length between 1.5 and 1.7, if possible.

Next, it’s time to sew:

Begin with the legs. Pin two legs together with right sides facing. Sew only the shin area. That will be from the edge to the black dot indicated on the pattern.

Open the shin seam and press with steam. with right sides facing, sew the foot top to the ankle. Match the notch on the foot top to the shin center seam. Slash the curves of the ankle, but not too close! Fold the leg pieces with right sides facing.

Match the ankle seams and pin. Position the leg pieces and pin. Sew the sides of the legs, leaving the top open.

Slash the seams at the curve of the knee, front and back. Don’t snip too close!

Place the soles right side up. There should be a left and a right. Pin the notch of the heel to the heel of the foot and move to machine. Slowly sew the sole to the foot top, ease the fabric as it is stitched. Slash the seams around the edge of the foot. Turn the leg and foot right side out and stuff.

Match the leg seams and pin the thigh in place. Set aside.

Arm Option 1: The Mitten

Pin two arms together, right sides facing and sew around the outside. Sew slowly around the thumb, pivoting as needed. Stop the machine, lift up the presser foot and adjust the angle of the fabric with the needle in place. This will prevent the fabric puckering that can be caused by pulling the fabric under the presser foot. Pulling the fabric will also weaken the integrity, causing it to fray in the thumb area.

Slash the curves of the hand and the elbow, inside and out.