Print the pattern:
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Cut the pattern along the solid black lines and assemble at the shaded areas.
See the pattern for yardage and materials required for this pattern.
For this pattern, it is important to maintain a consistent seam allowance of 3/8″
The shirt and overalls require some type of closure.
Fold the collar piece in half, long ways, and press well. Sew the ends with 3/8″ seam allowance and trim the points. Turn right side out, press well, and set aside.
Place the Fronts on the Back and pin the shoulders. Sew with 3/8″ seam allowance.
Open the bodice and pin the collar to the neckline, starting with the notch a the center of the back. Baste the collar to the neckline close to the raw edge (not a 3/8″ seam allowance).
Pin back facing to the bodice and sew using 3/8″ seam allowance.
Pin the back facing to the neckline. Match the notches first. Fold the neckline in half and make sure it is even (ie: there is equal space from collar point to facing fold on both sides).
Sew the facing to the bodice using 3/8″ seam allowance. Trim the points and turn right side out. Press well.
Pin the facing to the bodice. This is important to do before sewing in the sleeves! The facing will be sewn into the sleeve seams to prevent it from riding up while on the doll.
Sleeves can be tricky, and everyone has their own way of approaching them. My approach is to guide the sleeve into place while in the machine, always sewing with the sleeve on top of the bodice. For me, it is easier to do this than to pin it before sewing. Sew in the sleeve how ever is most comfortable to you. The notches should relatively match a the back of the bodice and the piece should fit nicely without extra sleeve or bodice a the armpits.
the facing should be sewn into the sleeves at the shoulders.
Use the shirt to measure for the length of the sleeve. You could also measure from the armpit to the cuff with a measuring tape to determine the length needed for the sleeve. Use whatever method is most comfortable to you. Mark the length of the sleeve with a pin and fold the cuff. You may choose to trim the excess fabric before pressing. Press the cuff into place on the wrong side of the fabric and sew into place.
With right sides facing, sew the side seams using 3/8″ seam allowance.
Fold up the bottom of the shirt, with wrong sides facing, and sew a hem. You may choose to measure on the doll for the appropriate length. Be sure to press down the hem the entire length of the shirt, but when sewing, fold in the facing as shown in the circled areas in the picture below.
Choose a closure that is appropriate for the use of your garment. Keep in mind that buttons can create a choking hazard for little ones. Closures can be tricky for beginner sewists, and I encourage you to close up your garment in a manner that is most comfortable to you. If your machine has a buttonholer and you are comfortable using it, then make button holes and sew on buttons.
For this tutorial, I used the buttons that came with the shirt I deconstructed for fabric. I use a lot of upcycled materials, and always cut off the closures and save them in a jar.
Hook and Loop Tape Closure:
For the tape option, cut a length shorter than the front closure. Apply the tape a distance from the collar points and end before the hem. This will allow the collar to fall nicely from the neckline and not bind the waistline.
I chose to apply buttons to the outside for aesthetic appeal. For the smaller sizes, the buttons were placed 2 cm apart. I used a ruler and marked the distance with chalk before sewing on the buttons. Because the hook and loop tape is very stiff, I used a thimble to save my fingers from needle sticks.
This pattern can be a little tricky for beginners, so I recommend using upcycled fabric for a the first try. If you use an old men’s dress shirt, you could make more than one to get used to the pattern before buying fabric for a more formal piece. Try using an overlock to shore up the raw edges, if you are so inclined. The result will be a more professional finish, but it isn’t necessary for home use of the garment.
If you will be using a heavy fabric for the overalls, accompany that with a thin, lightweight lining, such as muslin (which is what I used for this tutorial). If you will be using cotton, or other lightweight material, the pattern will work with the same fabric as a lining.
Pin the pocket outside and lining together. Fold down 1/4″ of the tops. The lining should be folded down slightly more than the outside. This will prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is turned.
Sew the bottoms of the pockets, leaving the tops open for turning.
Turn the pockets right side out and sew the tops closed. Set aside.
Pin the bib to the lining, right sides facing, and sew around the outside. Leave the bottom and sides open as shown.
Turn the bib right side out and press. Top sew if desired, but it isn’t necessary for all styles.
Place the bib pocket in the desired area and pin it. Leave enough space at the bottom for a seam allowance (for pants portion to be attached). Before sewing the pocket into place, fold the bib in half and make sure the pocket is centered properly. Set Aside.
Sew the front pieces together at the crotch area with right sides facing. Sew around the fly as shown.
Cut the point at the bottom of the fly and slash the curves for a smooth turn.
Fold the pocket areas down, with right sides facing, and sew along the fold with a very narrow seam allowance.
Unfold the pocket areas and press well.
Fold the pants front in half and press out the fly. Sew a straight line front the bottom of the fly to the waist.
Fold the fly to one side (which side is up to you…) and top stitch it to the pants.
To make it without pockets or a fly:
Fold the bib in half and use the iron to make a crease in the middle. Line up the middle of the bib with the center seam of the front and sew into place. Unfold and press. Top sew, if desired.
Back of Overalls:
With right sides facing, place the lining on the straps area and sew along the outside, leaving the bottom open for turning.
Make a cut in the area at the bottom of the strap and trim the point.
Turn the back pieces right side out and press well. Place them together with right sides facing and sew the crotch area.
Fold the back open and arrange the pointed areas with one on the inside and one on the outside. pin into place. The pointed areas will form an overlapped “triangle.”
Using a piece of chalk, or other temporary marking device, and create a guiding line along the ridge of the underneath piece. This will help guide the stitching.
Sew the overlap into place. You can do a top stitch as shown in the picture below, or simply stitch the triangle (See also picture below).
Place the back pockets on the back of the overalls. They work best about even with the raw edge of the pants area, but be creative and place them wherever you like! Sew them into place.
Place the front on the back with right sides facing. Line up the raw edges of the sides and sew together.
Trim the bottom of the legs, if needed.
Open the leg areas and create a hem using an iron. Make sure the cuff is the appropriate length by placing the garment on your doll.
Before sewing the cuff, open the leg areas and pin the crotch seams together. Make sure the leg lengths match. Adjust the cuffs as necessary before sewing the cuffs.
When you are sure the crotch area matches from cuff to cuff, sew the cuffs of the pants to your desired seam allowance. When using this denim, I wanted a seam that was fairly close to the folded edge. Use whatever width is best for the aesthetic you are going for.
Sew the crotch area.
Turn the garment right side out and put in on your doll. Measure the straps for placement and use chalk to mark the areas to place the closures.
I used snaps, because I think they are easiest, but if you have the chops for buttons and buttonholes, go for it!
Sew the contrast piece:
Place the contrast piece to the boot side and pin. Using a zipper foot for visibility, top sew the contrast piece to the boot side. When sewn, trim where necessary front and back. Set Aside.
If you would like to add any extra designs or trims, now is the time to do so. Here are some ideas:
Sew the Toe Dart:
Match the sides of the “V” in the toe and sew them using a narrow seam allowance. I like to use 1/4″ for the toe dart.
Attach the Foot and Side:
Sew the foot top to the boot side with right sides facing. Sew the non-dart side of the foot to the curved middle of the boot side.
Please be advised: the fabric used, and the angle of the cut, will determine how well these pieces fit together when sewn. Trim any non-matching seams before continuing with the next step.
Sew the Boot Back:
Fold the boot in half and sew the back seam 5/8″
Sew on the Soles:
Set out the cut soles and place them left to right. Pin the heel seam of each boot to the center of the heel on the sole. Sew the sole to the boot side.
Turn right side out. Enjoy!
Scroll down for the video! Happy Sewing!!!