For the measurements in the table, use a 1/4″ seam allowance.
The smaller sizes of these overalls can be made with a fat quarter and the larger sizes will require 3/8 yard. For this tutorial, I used the legs of an old pair of jeans, and there was plenty left over. This tutorial shows how to make the XL size of the pattern.
If you will be using a heavy fabric for the overalls, accompany that with a thin, lightweight lining, such as muslin (which is what I used for this tutorial). If you will be using cotton, or other lightweight material, the pattern will work with the same fabric as a lining.
You will need some type of closure for this pattern. I used snaps, as they are the easiest, but if you are comfortable making buttonholes, you will require two buttons.
Print and Cut the Pattern:
For the same measurements as the table, print the pattern Actual Size. For instructions to do this, click here. To adjust the size of the pattern, click here. Cut the pattern along the solid black lines and assemble at the shaded areas, as needed. Tape the pieces together at the shaded areas; hash lines will mostly match up.
Pin the pocket outside and lining together. Fold down 1/4″ of the tops. The lining should be folded down slightly more than the outside. This will prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is turned.
Sew the bottoms of the pockets, leaving the tops open for turning.
Turn the pockets right side out and sew the tops closed. Set aside.
Pin the bib to the lining, right sides facing, and sew around the outside. Leave the bottom and sides open as shown.
Turn the bib right side out and press. Top sew if desired, but it isn’t necessary for all styles.
Place the bib pocket in the desired area and pin it. Leave enough space at the bottom for a seam allowance (for pants portion to be attached). Before sewing the pocket into place, fold the bib in half and make sure the pocket is centered properly. Set Aside.
Sew the front pieces together at the crotch area with right sides facing. Sew around the fly as shown.
Cut the point at the bottom of the fly and slash the curves for a smooth turn.
Fold the pocket areas down, with right sides facing, and sew along the fold with a very narrow seam allowance.
Unfold the pocket areas and press well.
Fold the pants front in half and press out the fly. Sew a straight line front the bottom of the fly to the waist.
Fold the fly to one side (which side is up to you…) and top stitch it to the pants.
To make it without pockets or a fly:
Fold the bib in half and use the iron to make a crease in the middle. Line up the middle of the bib with the center seam of the front and sew into place. Unfold and press. Top sew, if desired.
Back of Overalls:
With right sides facing, place the lining on the straps area and sew along the outside, leaving the bottom open for turning.
Make a cut in the area at the bottom of the strap and trim the point.
Turn the back pieces right side out and press well. Place them together with right sides facing and sew the crotch area.
Fold the back open and arrange the pointed areas with one on the inside and one on the outside. pin into place. The pointed areas will form an overlapped “triangle.”
Using a piece of chalk, or other temporary marking device, and create a guiding line along the ridge of the underneath piece. This will help guide the stitching.
Sew the overlap into place. You can do a top stitch as shown in the picture below, or simply stitch the triangle (See also picture below).
Place the back pockets on the back of the overalls. They work best about even with the raw edge of the pants area, but be creative and place them wherever you like! Sew them into place.
Place the front on the back with right sides facing. Line up the raw edges of the sides and sew together.
Trim the bottom of the legs, if needed.
Open the leg areas and create a hem using an iron. Make sure the cuff is the appropriate length by placing the garment on your doll.
Before sewing the cuff, open the leg areas and pin the crotch seams together. Make sure the leg lengths match. Adjust the cuffs as necessary before sewing the cuffs.
When you are sure the crotch area matches from cuff to cuff, sew the cuffs of the pants to your desired seam allowance. When using this denim, I wanted a seam that was fairly close to the folded edge. Use whatever width is best for the aesthetic you are going for.
Sew the crotch area.
Turn the garment right side out and put in on your doll. Measure the straps for placement and use chalk to mark the areas to place the closures.
I used snaps, because I think they are easiest, but if you have the chops for buttons and buttonholes, go for it!
That’s it! Enjoy this simple pattern made for beginners. There are many more complicated ways to complete this pattern, and if you have better ideas- GO FOR IT!