Fabric: Cotton is the best choice for this sun dress and bloomers pattern. For the smaller sizes, 1/3 yard should be enough, while the larger sizes will require 3/4 yard. I recommend printing and assembling the pattern before purchasing fabric for best fit.
You will need 1/4″ elastic for the bloomer waistband and legs.
Sew with 5/8″ seam allowance for the measurements below.
Print the pattern to actual size for the measurements in the table. For instructions to do this, click here. Cut the pattern pieces along the solid black lines and assemble at the shaded areas.
Sew the Front to the Back at the side seams, right sides facing. Unfold (see picture below) and press open seams.
On the wrong side, fold a casing for the elastic (1/2 inch) and sew into place. In the video, I waited until later to sew the casing, but it can be done at this point for convenience.
With right sides facing, place bloomer pieces together and sew the front seam.
Open the bloomers and fold down the waist area 1/2 inch for an elastic casing. Sew into place.
With right sides facing, fold the bloomers at the front seam and sew the back seam. Leave the waist area elastic casing open.
Measure the waist and legs of the doll (or baby) with elastic to make an appropriate length of elastic and cut 1 inch longer than needed.
Use a safety pin or barrette to insert the elastic into the waist casing. Allow the elastic to extend beyond the casing about 1/2″ and sew into place.
Insert the leg elastic into the leg casings (sew them up, if you haven’t already) and sew the crotch of the bloomers, securing the leg elastics in place.
The back of the bloomers can be identified by the seam. You may want to sew in a ribbon as a “tag” to identify the back of the bloomers.
Sew the Dress:
Start by sewing the dress ties. With right sides facing, use a 1/4 inch seam allowance to sew the points of the ties, leaving the bottom open for turning.
Trim the points of the ties before turning, for best results.
Turn the ties right side out and press well.
Place the ties on the yoke, leaving some space at the sides for a seam allowance. You do not want to sew the ties into the side seams, only on the top.
Sew the sides and top, leaving the bottom open. Trim the corners.
Turn right side out and press well.
Place skirts together with right sides facing and sew the side seams.
Use an iron to fold the edges of the armholes and sew.
Use a needle and thread to create a running stitch along the top of the skirt. This will be used to gather the fabric so that it matches the width of the yoke.
Gather the fabric, using the running stitch, until it is the same width as the yoke. Make a knot to secure the running stitch.
With right sides facing, sew the yoke to the gathered top of the skirt.
Turn the dress wrong side out and turn up a hem. The width of the hem is a personal choice and should be determined by the height of the doll (or baby) to wear it. For this tutorial, I made a hem of 2 inches. Press the hem into place and either secure with the machine, or hand hem. I happen to prefer a hand sewn hem.
That’s it! As a side note, there are many different ways this pattern can be sewn together, and if you have better ideas, go with it. I prefer to KISS, and design patterns/tutorials for beginners. So, use a serger, apply French seams, show your chops. Good on you. I find that making sewing appealing to beginners by creating patterns that needn’t be complicated is the best way to nurture aspiring sewists and designers. And that really is the goal for me.