You will need about a half yard of fabric (depending on size to be made) for the hat and shield, contrasting color for the details, and 2 complete snap assemblies.
For this tutorial, I used felt for both the outside and the lining. Sometimes, felt can be a bit scratchy and a softer lining would be ideal. I have tried to use fleece for this pattern, and while it did work, it was not as easy to make as with the felt. I am sure canvas or a heavy cotton that doesn’t stretch would also be a good fabric choice.
Adjust the temperature on the iron to prevent scorching. Most felt is made with plastic fibers, so a too-hot iron will burn it. Just a heads up. The same is true of fleece. Iron with caution.
Print the PDF Pattern:
Under settings in the printer pop-up window, adjust the document to be ACTUAL SIZE for best results. It will still work if you don’t adjust, but the final result will be smaller.
Assemble the pattern pieces as shown in the picture below. Match the notches on the pattern pieces and secure with tape. Cut 2 of the hat pieces on the fold of the fabric. Cut 2 of the mask pieces on the fold.
For the blade, you will need some heavy fusible interfacing. The best way to cut out the blade is to first adhere the facing to the fabric using an iron. Then, either pin the pattern piece to the fabric with the interfacing in place, or trace the pattern piece onto the interfacing, and cut.
First, unfold the hat pattern. Fold in the outside edges so the arches match.
Sew the outer arches of both hat pieces, making sure to slope the stitching gradually along the folded edge of the fabric to create a smooth curve. Sewing to the edge of the cut corner will result in a pointy look. (Sew like the white dotted line, not like the red dotted line.) For best results, use a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Now, unfold what you just sewed and with one hat only, fold in half. Sew the back of the head with a 5/8″ seam allowance, sloping the stitches along the edge to create a smooth arch at the forehead.
Sew three sides of the blade, leaving the bottom arch open. Trim the corners and turn right side out; press well. For best results, use a 1/4″ seam allowance on the blade.
The blade will fit on the top of the helmet, but because of the bend in the piece it will be awkward to place. Begin by matching the notches on the blade and the helmet. Pin the forehead arch and the blade at the notch. The blade will be sandwiched between the hat pieces, with right sides facing.
With only the front of the hat pinned, and the blade in place, guide the blade into place as it is sown in the machine. Go slow and adjust the pieces as you go. It will be awkward, as the interfacing is stiff and it must be forced in the opposite direction for placement.
Turn one hat inside out and place inside the other with right sides facing. Pin around the raw edges and sew using a 5/8″ seam allowance. Leave a small space to turn the hat right side out; about 2″ on the back. Clip the corners, turn and press well. Hand sew the opening.
Unfold the mask pieces and separate. On one mask piece, attach snaps where indicated on the pattern. Make sure both snaps are facing in the same direction. Set aside.
Adhere fusible to one side of colored felt and cut into 1″ strips. Peel the fusible backing and iron the strips into the desired location on the mask without the snaps, on the right side. Sew the strips into place and trim.
Place the mask pieces, right sides facing and pin. Sew around the edges of the mask, leaving a small opening (about 2″) somewhere for the mask to be turned. Turn the mask right side out, press well with an iron and hand sew the opening.
Pin the mask to the front of the hat at the center seam. Use a pin to mark the area to attach the snaps on the hat. Attach the snaps. Snap the mask into place and prepare yourself for battle.