*For this tutorial, I used natural, unbleached muslin. One yard, 90″ wide made all six of these dolls, with a small swatch left over. I recommend using 1/3 yard for the micro, up to 2/3 yard for the XLarge. I highly recommend using a walking foot.
*Sew all seams on all sizes with 1/4″ seam allowance; including the bottom darts.
*The doll bodies will require some type of stuffing. I bought a throw pillow from the thrift store, ran it through a hot wash and dry, then cut it open and used the stuffing. For all six of these dolls, I utilized 1/3 of the pillow stuffing.
*To make the doll posable, insert weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend one for each jointed area, for example, one for the foot, one for the lower leg, one for the thigh, and so on with the arms.
Print the pattern:
This pattern is a PDF and includes all sizes in one file. You can use the chart to determine which size to print and only print those pages. This will save paper, ink and time.
Cut the pieces of the pattern for the size you want to make. Each is marked with the size; there are seven pattern pieces for each doll.
The zip tie casing:
Iron the strip in half, the long way. At this point, measure the yarn or zip tie intended to be used and trim the strip width as needed. Be sure to leave 1/4″ seam allowance, plus the width of the tie. Set aside.
Place arms, right sides together and pin. Sew carefully around the perimeter with 1/4″ seam allowance. Slash the seam allowance around the curves of the hand.
Turn the arms right side out and stuff. To make the limbs posable, fill with weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend using one for the hand, one for the forearm, and one for the bicep area. Set aside.
Sew the darts on the bottom, right sides facing. Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.
Sew the belly with 1/4″ seam allowance, right sides facing.
Unfold and match with the back at the shoulders, right sides facing. Sew the shoulder area with 1/4″ seam allowance. Slash the curves in the neck/shoulder area.
Unfold the neckline and press.
Trim the width of the casing if needed. If it is too wide, it will create puckers around the neck.
Prepare the zip tie casing by folding in one end and pressing, to create a neat entrance for the zip tie. Pin to the neckline.
Attach the zip tie casing to the neckline, raw edges together. Right sides facing. Leave a 1/4″ space between the end of the casing the raw edge of the center back. This will allow the back seam to be sewn without sewing the casing closed.
Pin the casing to the neckline. Adjust the length and pin as before by folding the fabric and leaving 1/4″ gap at the center back edge. Press the casing flat.
Match the center back seam and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.
Match the sides and sew from the armpits to the hips. Leave the arm holes open, and the bottom open for limb attachment. slash the underarms curves. Set aside.
Press the legs flat. Attach the foot top to the ankle as shown:
Slash the curves at the ankles. Fold the leg in half with right sides facing and sew the back seam of the leg.
Attach the Sole:
Match the heel seam with the notch on the sole. Using 1/4″ seam allowance, ease the foot top and the sole together. Slash the curves of the sole.
Turn the leg right side out and stuff. For posable limbs, use weighted pouches wrapped in batting. I recommend using one for the foot, one for the lower leg and one for the thigh.
Attach the limbs:
Place the body belly side up. Insert the legs, poking the feet through the neck hole, toes pointing up. Pin the center seam at the crotch before adjusting legs.
Pin the legs to the bottom, making sure the leg seam is in the middle, as shown:
Sew the bottom of the doll with 1/4″ seam allowance and turn right side out.
Insert the arms to the armholes. Hold the arm up to the arm hole and make sure the thumb is facing upward.
The seams should be positioned as pictured:
Sew in the arms using 1/4″ seam allowance and turn right side out.
Stuff and attach head with zip tie or string closure.