Sew a Yoda-Style Ragdoll

An original pattern and sewing tutorial (picture and video) for a Yoda-Style ragdoll.

Get the FREE pattern here! See the video here.

The Yoda-Style Ragdoll sewing pattern includes the child, a pair of shorts and the robe. The pattern is a PDF that requires no special printing instructions. Several of the pieces must be taped before use.

It seems like the big-eared, green alien baby has taken pop-culture by storm, but the officially released toys have been slow to hit the shelves. The holidays are approaching and if you have a Yoda lover in your life, you may want to give this pattern a try.

A Yoda ragdoll would make a great gift for any Star Wars lover. This pattern is simple and can be made from upcycled materials.

As usual, I found my materials at the thrift store. The olive green and tan were both tablecloths, and the pink for the ears was an actual fabric remnant. The tablecloths happened to be on the 50% blue tag sale that day, so the total cost to make 5 Yoda-style ragdolls was $5 (not including thread and the eyes). Not too shabby for a stocking stuffer.

To get started, you will need to download the $7 pattern here. Print the pattern on regular paper and get some tape ready to assemble a few of the pieces.

Print the pattern (7 pages) and prepare to assemble some of the pieces before proceeding.

Cut all the pattern pieces. You many want to store them in a manila envelope to keep them all together. I like to cut the label with the link to the instructions and tape it to the front of the envelope for easy reference. To save paper, there are not paper instructions, only those here at in the video tutorial.

Cut all of the pattern pieces. I recommend taping the link to the instructions on a manila envelope and keep the pieces in it for storage.

You will notice that a few pieces require taping at the shade area. The notches will match when the pieces are in place. Tape the front and the back for stability.

Here’s a sewing tip that I always use, especially with paper printed patterns: trace the pattern pieces onto freezer paper before use. The freezer paper can be ironed to the fabric, creating more stability while cutting, and requires fewer pins. It’s a lot easier to work with than printer paper.

Once the pattern is printed, transferred and cut out, begin cutting out the fabric. As I mentioned, I was making multiples, so I used two tablecloths and a pink remnant. If you’re planning to make just one, I would recommend a third yard of fabric. Cut all the pieces as directed, making sure to cut the notches as markers.

Directions for the Ragdoll:

Take the pattern off the back and pin together. All the seams (with the exception of the ears) will be sewn with a 1/4″ allowance.

Sew the back, leaving the middle open, this is area where the ragdoll will be turned right side out.

Sew the back of the ragdoll, leaving the middle open for turning.

Unfold the ragdoll back and press well. Press open seam.

Pin and sew the ears, leaving the flat sides open. Sew the ears with a 1/4″ seam allowance, for best results.

Trim points and around curves for better shape when it is turned right side out.

Turn the ears right side out and press well. Fold over the top of the ear, matching notches, and pin.

Lay the body front, wrong side up, on the table. Use the pattern to mark the eyes with a pen or pencil. Cut a few rectangles of fabric and pin to the mouth area. Draw on the mouth and sew in place.

With the right side facing up, pin the ears in place with the folded portion toward the top of the head, and the pink side facing down.

Place the body back on top, with the right side facing down. Pin into place. Trim any areas with overlap on each side.

Sew in the areas marked by the black line, leaving the bottom and the arm holes open.

Sew the areas marked by the black line, leaving three spaces open for arms and legs.

Trim the corners and slash the angle at the neck area. Make cuts along the armpits for ease in turning right side out.

Pin the arms and legs with right sides together. Two layers each for two legs and two arms.

Sew the arms and legs, leaving the tops open.

Sew around the bottoms of the legs and arms, leaving the tops open.

Make cuts along the rounded edges of the arms and legs to ease turning.

Turn the arms and legs right side out and stuff. Push down the stuffing a little, and pin the tops. Give about an inch of room between the pin and the raw edge of the fabric at the top of the limb.

Inset the legs, feet first, into the bottom of the ragdoll. Pin along the bottom edge of the ragdoll and sew the legs into place.

Insert the stuffed legs into the body at the open bottom. Sew along the bottom to secure the legs.

Trim the corners.

Clip the corners so they turn out with less bulk.

Turn the legs out through the back, careful not to also pull through the arm holes and head.

There are two ways to insert the arms. The first way is with the seams matching. This is the easier way, but the result is a ragdoll that can’t put its arms down.

The second way is with opposing seams. I prefer to sew in arms this way so they hang at the sides.

Insert the stuffed arm into the armhole and pin. Sew along the arm hole, backing up a few times to reinforce. The arms of a stuffy experience a lot of pulling; reinforcement prolongs the life of the toy.

Sew the arm and the shoulder together with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn out the rest of the ragdoll and prepare to place the eyes by clipping the marked area.

If you do not plan to use plastic toy eyes, simply sew your felt or cloth eye into place using a top or blind stitch. Plastic eyes can be found nearly anywhere crafting supplies are sold, and they come in a variety of sizes. I got a variety pack and tried all three sizes of the black eye (I made 8 ragdolls developing this pattern.)

I experimented with different sizes of eyes and spacing. They are all cute.

There were many ragdolls in the making of this pattern. I think the eye size and spacing doesn’t matter much. They are all cute.

Stuff the body and head with some type of stuffing. I had some stuffing from a couple throw pillows I bought (to use the covers for a different purpose). Be sure to stuff the neck well, or the head will sag. Pin the opening in the back and hand stitch it closed.

Directions for Ragdoll Shorts:

I had some leftover pink from the remnant I got for the Ragdoll’s ears, so I also used it for its shorts. Cut the shorts pattern on the fold. You will have two. Pin them in one of the crotch areas and sew with a 1/4″ seam.

Cut the shorts on the fold. Two pieces are needed for the shorts.

Sew the two shorts pieces together at the crotch on one side only.

Unfold the shorts at the seam and fold down the top one inch for the elastic waistband. Press well and sew into place. Fold up the hems for the shorts one inch and press well. Sew into place.

Thread elastic through the waistband casing and secure with pins on each side.

Fold the shorts in half, meeting the elastic ends. Pin and sew the crotch area, reinforcing where the elastic meets. This could be a weak point for frequent play.

After the crotch area is sewn, fold out the center crotch seam and sew it closed.

Put some pants on that child.

I could not give the child a coat, but not a pair of underpants.

Directions for Ragdoll Robe:

Cut the pattern pieces for the tan material. The coat will also need a button.

Trace the pattern pieces onto freezer paper to store and preserve. The benefit is that when ironed, the pattern sticks to the fabric while it is being pinned.

Begin with the back and sleeve pieces. Pin the sleeves to the back at the notches and sew.

Match the notches on the sleeves with notches on the robe back.

Fold open the sleeves and press well. Match notches of Robe Front with the sleeves. Sew, open and press well.

Match notches of sleeve to robe front. Pin and sew.

Fold the cuff in half (the long way) and pin raw edge to raw edge of sleeve.

Place collar pieces, right sides together and pin. Sew three sides, leaving the base open (as shown).

Trim the corners of the collar, turn and press well.

Pin the collar to the right side of the neck of the robe. Leave some space at the ends to allow for the front seam allowance.

Baste the collar to the robe (loosely attach where the stitches won’t be seen).

Before continuing, fold back the points of the collar and pin them out of the way. This will keep them from getting sewn up into the seams by accident. Set aside and get the facing pieces.

Sew the top of the facing with a 5/16″ seam. Open and press well.

Pin the facing along the neckline, centering seam to the center back of the robe.

Pin the facing to the right side of the robe, on top of the collar.

Sew the facing to the neckline. Pin and sew the facing to the front of the robe. Clip the corners before turning.

Pin and sew side seams from cuff to hem. Match the cuff end and pin. Match the armpit seams and pin. This will allow the seams to match up as closely as possible.

Fold up the bottom of the robe 1″ and hem with a straight stitch.

Put the robe on the ragdoll and mark the closure area with a pin.

Sew a buttonhole in the area marked with the pin. Sew a button to the corresponding area of the robe front. I suggest sewing the button to the facing only, that way the stitches don’t show on the outside.

The ragdoll itself would make a great gift, or stocking stuffer. The robe can be a bit challenging to sew for a beginner, but it isn’t necessary to have a pretty neat doll. Have fun with this pattern!